CAROLINGIAN OKTOBERFEST A&S PAGE

WOMEN’S GARB

WHILE DOING RESEARCH FOR A PRESENTATION TO THE SHIRE OF STANDING STONES PRIOR TO THE CAROLINGIAN OKTOBERFEST EVENT, I FOUND THAT WOMEN’S’ GARB FROM THE 800’S IN THE CAROLINGIAN EMPIRE WAS SOMEWHAT MORE DIFFICULT TO DOCUMENT THAN MEN'S GARB. THERE ARE ONLY TWO (THAT I AM AWARE OF) GRAVE FINDS FOR WOMEN EVEN CLOSE TO THAT PERIOD, AND THEY ARE BOTH AT LEAST 200 YEARS EARLIER. THOSE TWO FINDS ARE FOR QUEEN ARNEGUNDE (DIED ~570) AND QUEEN BATHILDE (DIED ~680).

THIS PAGE IS INTENDED AS A VERY BASIC INTRODUCTION TO FRANKISH GARB. GROSS GENERALITIES MAY BE MADE!

GENERAL RULES:

FRANKISH GARB FOR WOMEN TENDED TO BE LAYERED TUNICS. THESE TUNICS WOULD BE MADE FROM LINEN OR WOOL. THEY WERE NOT VERY FULL- THE FRANKISH STYLE IS REPEATEDLY REFERRED TO AS BEING RATHER NARROW- NOT CONSTRICTING, BUT NOT VERY FULL EITHER. THE TUNICS MAY BE TRIMMED WITH WOVEN TRIM, EMBROIDERY, OR SILK. SILK WAS EXTREMELY COSTLY, SO IT IS NOT TYPICAL FOR ENTIRE GARMENTS TO BE MADE FROM SILK EXCEPT FOR THE EXTRAVAGANTLY WEALTHY. SILK WAS, HOWEVER, USED AS TRIM- ONE EXAMPLE WOULD BE TO WRAP AND SEAL A SEAM- MUCH LIKE SOME PEOPLE USE MODERN BIAS TAPE.

THE BASIC GOWNS:

THE FIRST LAYER A LADY MAY HAVE WORN WOULD HAVE BEEN A WHITE UNDER TUNIC, ANKLE LENGTH WITH CLOSE FITTED SLEEVES (THIS IS AN UNDERGARMENT PRIMARILY) AND NOT FULLER THAN IS NEEDED FOR A FULL WALKING STRIDE. THIS TUNIC WAS USUALLY LINEN, ALTHOUGH IF THE WEARER COULDN’T AFFORD LINEN, WOOL WOULD BE USED.

OVER THE UNDERTUNIC WOULD GO A SECOND TUNIC- THIS WOULD BE THE MAIN GOWN. THIS GOWN MAY HAVE BEEN IN A WIDE RANGE OF COLORS, AND WAS ALSO LONG SLEEVED, WITH A FAIRLY FITTED SLEEVE. DEPENDING ON THE WEATHER, THERE MAY BE A “SUPERTUNIC” OF CONTRASTING COLOR OVER THIS, WHICH COULD BE SLIGHTLY SHORTER AND LOOSER THAN THE FIRST (AT SLEEVE AND HEM) AND SLIGHTLY WIDER IN THE ARM.

ACCESSORIES:

FRANKISH WOMEN FREQUENTLY WORE PROMINENT BELTS OVER THEIR TUNICS, FROM WHICH PENDANTS MAY HAVE BEEN HUNG.

THEY ALSO WORE SHOES AND GARTERS UNDER THEIR GOWNS. THERE IS REFERENCE TO CHARLEMAGNE’S DAUGHTERS TREASURING THEIR SILK SHAWLS, AND WE KNOW THEY WERE BOTH PRACTICAL AND BEAUTIFUL.

OVER THEIR GOWNS, FRANKISH WOMEN WOULD HAVE HAD A CLOAK OR WRAP SECURED BY A BROACH OR PAIR OF BROACHES.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN DETAILED INFORMATION, THERE IS EXTENSIVE DOCUMENTATION ON THE WEB. SOME PERSONAL FAVORITES:

GENERAL:

http://www.hp.uab.edu/image_archive/ujg/ujgf.html

http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/sbook1h.html#Carolingian%20Culture

http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/ho/06/euwf/ho_17.191.134.htm

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ht/06/euwf/ht06euwf.htm

http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/source/einhard1.html

IF YOU HAVE NEVER MADE A PERIOD STYLE TUNIC:

http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML (FOR FRANKISH, LEAVE OFF THE FRONT GORE)

BATHILDE:

http://thealater.livejournal.com/81933.html

ARNEGUNDE:

http://helois.250free.com/projects/doc/arnegunde.htm

http://www.chalain.culture.gouv.fr/culture/arcnat/saint-denis/en/2_2_aregonde.htm